Two Sundays in Northern France

Boats on moorings at Le Hourdel

Two Sundays have passed since I last wrote here.  On the first we were treated to lunch at the Restaurant “Le Parc aux Huitres” at Le Hourdel.  This little fishing village stands on a spit of sand and shingle at the mouth of the Somme estuary, and it’s a favourite spot for tourists in spring and summer because of the the huge wide skies, great views across the bay – and the colony of seals that have made the place their home.

Not far away is the historic and picturesque old port of St Valéry sur Somme, which has an almost perfectly preserved “old town” quarter entirely within its ancient formidable protective walls.

Le Parc aux Huitres - recommended for lunch!

Le Parc aux Huitres serves mostly seafood, as you would expect, and we were very impressed by the quality of our meal which we chose from the fixed price menu.  My Sole Meuniere was excellent, and Sue judged her Aile de Raie (Skate wing) one of the best dishes she has eaten in France. We’ve been here 10 years, so that is high praise.

I have to mention my desert, “Moelleux au Caramel” I think it was called. It was a fabulously soft and buttery pudding with an intense caramel flavour surrounded by a little moat of Creme Anglaise custard.  Think of the most deliciously moist sticky toffee pudding ever, remove the sickly sweet sticky sauce but double the caramel toffee intensity, and you might be getting close.

As we were being treated I don’t know exactly what the bill came to, but I think it was about 110 euros for 3 people including wine, aperitifs and coffee.

Hesdin, in the Seven Valleys region

On the following Sunday we took part in a Treasure Hunt organised by some friends who live near Hesdin, in the “Seven Valleys” region, about half-an-hour inland. About the arguments that took place between our team-mates, a very competitive and apparently very happily married couple, the least said the better.  I simply drove, as fast as I could, to the places the navigator told me to go – when he wasn’t being interrupted and contradicted by his wife.  Sue worked out some of the cryptic clues and ran around spotting answers to questions.  Somehow we managed to come second.

At the end of the outing, with drinks in hands and all the arguments over and done with, our team-mates related the story of their first meeting. It was on a motor rally when she had been “volunteered” to navigate for him.  We expressed some surprise that they had ever got around to a second date, let alone ended up married!

It was a beautiful warm and sunny day, and in our search for the Treasure Hunt answers we saw some wonderfully pretty villages, as well as woods, valleys, streams, old mills and other sights, that we might otherwise have bypassed or missed in passing.

If you spend a holiday in this area we recommend at least one day taking in some of the pretty countryside in the Seven Valleys, and, of course, a trip out to Le Hourdel to see the seals – and maybe lunch at Le Parc aux Huitres.

Restaurant “Le Parc Aux Huitres”
Le Hourdel
80140 Cayeux Sur Mer

Tel: 0033 (0)3 22 26 61 20
www.leparcauxhuitres.com

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A Saturday night out for the Sandboys

Saturday is usually a working day for us. Every Saturday in the summer, and many out-of-season Saturdays, are “changeover” days for our holiday gites and apartment. As we insist on preparing each gite ourselves it can be quite a hard days work. We now have 3 gites, and on a 3-way changeover day they all have to be thoroughly cleaned and prepared between 10am and 4pm. This gives us just enough time to do all the jobs – and a little over for any unexpected problems such as defrosting fridges, fixing blown fuses and breakages, unblocking washing machines, etc. There’s sometimes even enough time for a quick sandwich at lunchtime.

It used to be tougher. There was a time when we had 5 gites – 2 at the seaside and 3 in the country – but we decided to reduce the number when we found we needed to employ helpers to cope. We are supposed to be semi-retired, after all!

So, on Saturdays if the work has not been too tiring, we often treat ourselves to a meal out at one of our local restaurants. One of our favourites is the Restaurant La Terrasse, on the seafront at Fort Mahon. It’s only about 10 minutes from our home, and it’s open almost every day of the year, so it is particularly handy in winter when many other places have closed down. But the main reason why we like it so much is that it is very French, usually busy, but always ready to find space for you if it’s possible, even without a reservation. The fixed price menus start at the reasonable price of 18 euros, but for a special occasion you can go for the Menu Gourmand which includes lobster and champagne at 55 euros per head. We’ve never had a bad meal there.

Last Saturday, however, we made a typically late decision to eat out, and decided to try the newly refurbished brasserie restaurant at the Hotel des Freres Caudron, at Rue, a pretty market town about 13 kilometres away.

Brasserie "Les Freres Caudron" at Rue - formerly the Lion D'Or

This hotel used to be called the Lion D’Or, but last year it was taken under new management, greatly smartened up over the winter, and reopened under its new name in February. We thought we would give it a try, and strolled into the place, early for dining, at about 7.15pm. It certainly looked smart, and the menu was enticing, too, so we were very disappointed to be told that we couldn’t dine because they were already booked up. As we’re still in March, with not many tourists about, this must mean the place has already become very popular with the locals. In France there is no higher recommendation. You can forget your Michelin and Gault Millau guides, if the locals crowd into a place it must be good.

We made a mental note to make sure to book next time, and not to wait too long, because if there’s a really good new place to eat in our area, we need to try it out and make our own judgement. So far the indications for “Les Freres Caudron” are good.

So we ended up once again at La Terrasse – not that there’s anything wrong with that – and enjoyed an excellent meal with, in spite of a full dining room, the usual exceptionally attentive service.  Not bad for only 48 euros.

You really can’t go wrong when you stick to the places where the locals eat.

Brasserie Les Freres Caudron,
5, rue de la Barriere,
80120 RUE
Téléphone: +33 (0)3 22 25 00 66

Hotel La Terasse,
Avenue de la Plage
80120 FORT-MAHON-PLAGE

Téléphone: +33 (0)3 22 23 37 77

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